Tablecloths A and B are newer, ( 20th c. which is not necessarily a good thing but these are in superb condition), they are heavy (for damask), are off white in color (which is very rare) and are of a length which just pushes them into a very long size. (120″+) which also makes them rare.

Tablecloth C, though spectacular and old (19th c.) has been used more, is worn (slightly), has imperfections in one corner and it has fringe, which modern people see as a detriment because they perceive it to be scary to handle. I, myself, adore fringe and I adore the quality and designs of old old damask… the A and B cloth designs are sleek and simple but I do love the old fashioned fringe and flowers. If they had figures or scenes in them, the prices would also jump up.

Then, there is a very practical matter of what I had to pay to acquire them and launder them and how long I anticipate them “sitting around” before the perfect customer comes along…

We [have] a white tablecloth that … was done with blue cotton floss. Parts of the fabric are “yellowed” probably from storage? How do we clean this without having the blue thread bleed into the fabric?

ANSWER: This is tricky because thread is either colorfast… or it’s NOT! And, by the time you have immersed it in water and discovered that it is not, then it is too late.

Perhaps dry cleaning would be the best way to proceed in this case.

However, I am usually “up” for a challenge and I am not fond of the entire idea of dry cleaning chemicals… so I would probably decide to launder it myself.
My approach would be to dissolve salt in cold water, then add some plain white vinegar and soak the cloth in that. Both those substances are supposed to keep color from bleeding. I have used this technique with some success but if a thread is not colorfast, there isn’t much you can do. You would be surprised how much yellowing would come out in plain water alone.
BUT… the most important part is after it has been soaked and rinsed, and that is to get it as dry as possible as soon as possible. Many times I have pulled items out of a nice soak and there has been no bleeding, only to discover hours later that the thread has run during my dripping period. So, squash it by hand and perhaps roll it between towels before hanging.

so many possibilities remain when the year is fresh and bright.

Warm wishes to all for a very happy new year.

I hope you don’t mind my contacting you with a question.  I have discovered your site (obviously) and am looking forward to exploring it!

I have a lovely c. 1880 – 1890-ish (I think) christening dress.  The fabric is a very sheer white lawn.  It has many, many tiny pintucks.  I’ve ironed it before, but recently, had to soak it because I accidentally splashed coffee on it (which came out right away, thankfully), so now I have to iron it again.

Someone online who deals in vintage pieces told me that she starches her christening gowns, and that it would enhance the look of my dress if I sprayed starch on the underside before ironing.  (I have to iron this one on the “right” side because of the pintucks, rather than ironing inside-out.)

Previously, when I’ve ironed this dress, I’ve used a dry iron and lightly sprayed the dress with water as I ironed, but I have not used starch.

I was wondering if you might be willing to advise me on this.  In your opinion, is it a good idea to use starch on a fine lawn antique garment?  Would it enhance the garment, or would it not be a good idea?

I display this dress on a padded hanger.  It’s sooooo lightweight that I don’t think it causes any weight damage to hang it — and I do check it from time to time to see if there appears to be any pulling on the seams.

I’d greatly appreciate any advice you might have about starching vs. not starching.

I imagined a heavy satin number or a crinkled polyester with a train. Was I ever wrong! It was a tea length embroidered eyelet cotton and it was really charming. It had discolored from storage and the shoulders were spotted with rust. After confirming that it would be okay if I accidentally ruined it, I offered to launder it for our friend. I was hoping to salvage it but could not predict the outcome. Sometimes items do not survive being soaked and sometimes they don’t survive being ironed!

I rue the fact that I didn’t snap a photo of it before I plopped it into the bathtub.

Just after I started soaking the dress.

At this point, I was convinced that the dress would turn out to be ivory instead of white. After 3 or 4 hours, the shoulders still had rust spots so I drained the tub and started over. The second soaking performed a miraculous feat: all stains disappeared. Even better, the dress emerged intact and strong. Drip drip dry from the showerhead; then it spent a few hours hanging from a hanger in the windy April sunshine. I ironed the cheesecloth underskirt, the acetate skirt and the outer cotton layer separately; it’s beautiful.

The outcome of the dress; fit for the sugarplum fairy or for my friend's wedding!!

http://www.antique-linens.com/MarghabPatterns.html

I am excited to see how far we get; the list seems endless right now and there are lots of blanks!

I have collected many photos over the years and I even have photos of two patterns that the book says have never been seen. Hmmn, books can be wrong, I suppose. (The two patterns are called “Fire” and “Sprig” in case you are curious.)

My goal is to try to have photos of as many Marghab designs as possible. Doesn’t that sound like a satisfying kind of project!?

If you would be so kind as to help me with this, please contact me; Then you can email me some good photos along with the name of the design and the type of item. I will also give you photo credits if you like. And, if you know of anyone who collects Marghab embroidery, please let them know about my plan!

iron fabrics on the wrong side on a padded surface. ironing smooths the weave where the hot iron touches the fabric, sometimes smoothing it too much and making it shiny or slick. this is especially important with monograms and embroidery where a great deal of the appeal is the three dimensional character of the work.

napkins. it’s imperative to establish a folding pattern and stick with it. this helps with stacking, storing and counting. long ago, i started folding items so that the main design (a monogram on a napkin or also on a handkerchief) ends up in the exact same position on every item. a customer described how she folded her napkins in order that her dinner guests could pick them up with one hand so that the napkins practically unfolded themselves. that’s the idea!

it’s never too late, of course. just take a deep breath and wade in. you have my permission to throw away (or tear up for dustcloths) the things that have holes or are worn out. you also have my permission to give away (to children, friends or goodwill) any items that you know you truly (truly in your heart truly) will not use for anything. if it is an item in a collection, it’s okay to keep it. i am talking about the other stuff!

make a pact with yourself to rotate your items so that they all get seen… and so they all wear out a tiny bit instead of all at once. i have the habit of pulling sheets off beds, washing them and just popping them right back where they were. my resolve: i’m gonna break this habit!

there is no time like the present to plan to carry a cup of tea or hot chocolate and go to commune with your linen shelves!